Maine sommelier reaches new heights in the wine world

Jenn Forge had been working the floor at Twelve for only a few years when she decided to tackle what many consider the most grueling test in the wine world.

This summer, the 36-year-old head sommelier at the Portland restaurant became the first woman in Maine—and the first native Mainer—to earn her Level 3 Advanced Certification from the Court of Master Sommeliers. It's a credential that places her among roughly two dozen professionals worldwide to pass the exam this year.

"I thought my brain would explode with the amount of information going in," Forge said. "The more you learn about wine, the more you realize you know nothing about wine."

The path to that distinction was anything but straightforward. Forge spent a year and a half studying up to 15 hours a day while raising two young daughters with her husband, Dan, in South Portland. She drew dozens of wine region maps, compiled a 252-page study guide, and practiced blind tastings at home. The investment was substantial: $1,800 for the preparatory course, $1,600 for the exam, plus travel to testing sites in New Hampshire and Texas and countless bottles for practice.

"When you see someone commit that kind of time and energy to a goal, it's remarkable," said Colin Wyatt, culinary director for Prentice Hospitality Group, which owns Twelve. "You don't come across people like Jenn very often."

Forge's background is as unconventional as her trajectory. She spent her early adulthood as a classically trained pianist and soprano singer, attending the University of Southern Maine on a music scholarship 18 years ago before pivoting to the hospitality industry. That musical discipline, she said, translated surprisingly well to the high-pressure testing environment.

"It's like, 'Can you do these things while you're holding a conversation and getting drilled on questions?'" Forge explained. "Because it's built into my system, it gives me more time to focus on what they're asking me."

Her journey into wine began in 2016 at Lolita, a Munjoy Hill restaurant where she worked as a bartender. There, she watched colleagues studying for their own CMS credentials and felt compelled to join them.

"Everyone around you is talking about the 10 crus of Beaujolais and quizzing each other," Forge said. "I was always such a competitive person. I wanted to play."

Stella Hernandez, a certified sommelier and co-owner of Lolita, became an early mentor. "She picks hard things and does them well," Hernandez said. "The composure it takes to pass these exams is incredible. A lot of people who are very knowledgeable sommeliers struggle under that pressure."

Forge passed her Level 2 certification in 2023, just two months after her mother died of complications from alcoholism. The irony was not lost on her.

"Should I really be in this industry promoting something that killed my mom?" she recalled thinking. But she soon reframed her perspective: "When we get to this point, this is not about promoting getting drunk. It's about promoting the consumption of quality in moderate doses."

Her ambitions caught the attention of Scott Tyree, the only Master Sommelier in Maine, based in Freeport. He encouraged her to pursue the advanced certification and served as a practice partner leading up to the exam.

"When I saw her work, I was struck by how she moves around a table," Tyree said. "She makes people comfortable with their wine choices. That's a hospitality gene—not something you can teach."

The exam itself is formidable. Candidates must first pass a written theory test covering the geography, geology, climate, soil and viticulture practices of every wine region in the world, along with business and service principles. Of roughly 350 who took the theory portion in February, 85 advanced to the practical and tasting exams in July. Only 27 passed—including just two women.

Forge's testing took place at the Ritz-Carlton in Dallas, where proctors evaluated her ability to analyze wine sales data, spot errors on a wine list, prepare cocktails, serve and decant wines, and recommend pairings for a mock menu. They scrutinized her sparkling wine service down to whether she removed the cork with barely a whisper of carbonation rather than an explosive pop.

The final challenge was a blind tasting: six wines, 25 minutes to identify each one's region, grape variety and vintage. Forge described the methodical process—examining color, clarity and viscosity; searching for aromas on the nose; tasting for acidity, tannins, alcohol and finish.

"There were definitely times I thought my brain would explode," she said.

The morning after the tasting, Forge arrived at the testing site feeling less than ideal. She and other candidates had celebrated completing the exam the night before. When she saw Tyree waiting in the room with the proctors, she sensed what was coming.

"How are you feeling?" they asked.

"Cautiously optimistic," she replied.

"Congratulations. You passed."

She and Tyree, who had recused himself from evaluating her, embraced in tears.

Her father, Bob Rothbart of Scarborough, had his own reaction: "If she had put this much work into high school and college," he said, "she'd be working at NASA right now."

Back at Twelve, Forge has translated her credentials into a thriving program. When she arrived four years ago, the restaurant offered roughly 80 bottles. Today, the list spans more than 375 selections, ranging from $50 to $2,000, and has earned the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence every year under her guidance.

Guests frequently time their visits to coincide with her shifts. On a recent Tuesday evening, she glided between tables—reviewing invoices, organizing pairings, fielding questions about the differences between dry and sweeter chenin blancs—with the fluid efficiency of someone accustomed to multitasking.

"We love your passion," one couple told her. Minutes later, she was noting in the restaurant's database that they were wine enthusiasts from the Augusta area, ensuring they would be well cared for on their next visit.

Forge said she is already considering pursuing the Master Sommelier diploma—the highest CMS certification—though she plans to consult with mentors before committing. The ultimate accolade, the Krug Cup, has been awarded to only 14 people worldwide who passed all three portions of the master exam on their first attempt.

"My dad would say, 'I have four sons, and my daughter has a bigger set of balls than any of them,'" Forge said with a shrug. "If you can do something, shouldn't you try?"

For now, she remains focused on the work she loves: introducing guests to wines they might never discover on their own and helping them feel something new with each bottle opened.

"She imparts some of her knowledge to you, and it makes you feel like you're seeing or tasting something for the first time," Wyatt said. "That's a rare gift."